Pearls for Breakfast

Princesses are evil.

2010-09-11T19:23:00.005+10:00

I did end up getting my femme relief last week, on Sunday night. This photo is pre-corset, as you can see from the background, but I added it after the shot (partly to complete the outfit, partly because the dress is falling apart so I don't want to strain it any further). One of my more expensive outfits even without the corset:

black floral print viscose dress -- Retrostar $35
black pleated skirt (worn under for bulk, not visible here) -- Lisa Ho via Savers, $5
black knee socks -- probably bought from a supermarket for $5
white lace cuffs -- made them myself
black flower headband -- Diva, $8
black lace-up shoes -- a Tasmanian op shop, $1
black underbust corset -- Dolly Q, $200
leather strap -- from Daddy
resin heart with diamante and text "I slept with him anyway" -- Johnston St warehouse sale, $2

I wear corsets maybe half a dozen times a year, perhaps a little more often now. So the price-per-wear is pretty ridiculous. This one cost more than my glasses, which I wear everyday (I usually buy glasses while I'm in China, where they're heaps cheaper). But then a corset can make a kick-arse outfit out of a handful of petticoats and a plain shirt or t-shirt.

And they feel amazing -- on Sunday night I had a cold and while I was on the tram getting to the venue, it felt like the corset was literally the only thing holding me together.

I'm not sure how I got into egl -- probably via goth which was never (aesthetically or practically) a good fit. But it's strange because I hated being dressed up in fancy, fussy princess dresses when I was a little girl. I guess I got into the broken doll look when I was a teenager, though I find it a pretty problematic style as a feminist.

Are there any styles you love now, that you thought you'd never come around to?

The title of this post comes from this fabulous song by The Coup:

Snap.

2010-09-03T13:13:00.004+10:00

Someone wolf-whistled at me last Friday when I was walking down St Kilda Road to meet Sonic in my short skirt and long jacket. It didn't really bother me but I just realised I've worn trousers and a hoodie almost every day this week. Funny how these things work: apparently unwanted attention from men provokes immediate reactionary dykeification*.

red gingham snap-button shirt -- hand-me down from Sonic
white long-sleeved t-shirt -- Target children's department, $10 for two (the other one is grey)
black skinny jeans -- Camby markets, $3
black Converse leather sneakers -- DJ's, $40
black leather strap (covered by camera) -- present from Daddy

* By which I mean a particular, easily identifiable androdyke look. It's definitely not femme but it's not really butch either; it's kind of the same as what femmy hipster boys wear. About eighteen months ago I went to a lo-fi/DIY arts festival in Adelaide and I was amused to see that I'd happened upon the uniform -- in my skinny jeans, square glasses and checked shirt, I was dressed the same as several boys there; all I was missing was a skanky beard.

I was reading a story in Patrick Califia's Macho Sluts last night where the protagonist defensively lengthens her stride and takes care not to swing her hips as she walks, and I realised I do this too -- and when I get home I swap my heels for boots or kicks. It's strange -- it seems like most people get more shit for non-gender-normative appearances -- but I usually feel safer when I don't look so femme.

Read on!

Max Attitude on politeness.
3p on chivalry.
Gauche Sinister on femme.

Restyle.

2010-08-01T16:29:00.007+10:00

My friend Riots bought these shoes for me second-hand in Cairns. They were $35 which is a lot more than I'd usually pay, and they're too high for me to wear often. But I figure (like a corset) though the cost per wear is a lot higher than usual, they make quite an impact and will take an outfit from stylish to spectacular. Plus I've been into spectators and wingtips for years now, so I know it's not a passing fancy, and I like the idea of being able to instantly kinkify an outfit with such killer heels.

Tonight I'm wearing them to a fetish club with my $1 dress which I've shortened for the occasion, and a patent belt I got from the Salvation Army store in North Melbourne. I don't have the sewing skills for something like the uniform project but I can bring the skank at relatively short notice. I think I prefer its usual length though, so I'll probably let it out again.

I had my hair cut recently and I haven't got the hang of styling it yet, but it's kind of mod-ish. I think I'll ask for it shorter next time.

Safari Dress & No New Year

2010-07-31T20:21:00.005+10:00

Gosh, I haven't used this blog for over a year. Sorry, folks!

Here's a vintage safari dress I bought last week from Lost and Found Market for $5.

Generally I don't wear nothing-colours like beige, cream, camel or caramel -- and certainly not the colours often called nude -- but I'll make an exception here. I think the stone colour, stiff fabric, and the somewhat military shape come together to create a severity I really enjoy, especially when buttoned up to the neck. I love harsh, demanding femininity -- what corsetiere Andrea Johnson might call a specific, evil glamour.

I love the details around the shoulders, sleeves and waist, and the excessive number of buttons. And I think the narrow cuffs make my arms look bigger (all the better for caning my errant charges).

By the by, I've also begun blogging about my consumer practices at No New Year, along with my darling boy, Sister Felix Slowly.

Four months late.

2009-10-04T07:17:00.003+11:00

[A Polyvore set I made at the start of winter.]

Hyggeligt. by quean

Everything you need for a Melbourne winter, apart from your train to run on time (and you know I can't do nothing about that): A mug of something steaming, layers on layers, and some gloves to keep your knuckles warm while you're skidding over sodden leaves on your bike, racing the wind down Victoria Street.

The outfit is a bit too similar to my Enid from Ghost World set, but this one's inspired by the conference I'm helping to organise, Students of Sustainability. (Our logo's an owl, and there'll be bicycles. That's close enough.)

http://studentsofsustainability.org

Summer wardrobe.

2009-01-17T18:28:00.002+11:00

Summer wardrobe. by quean

Following a discussion on the Vogue forums, I got to thinking about what would make a good basic summer wardrobe for young Melbourne lass whose personal style is in transition, or unknown. I think this covers most social and climactic possibilities ... and it'd fit into even the tiniest suitcase.

Highway Blues (goin' the country).

2009-01-17T18:23:00.000+11:00

Highway blues (goin' the country). by quean

Femme/butch, plaid/polka dots ... and a little bit of hanky code action ...

I've been getting into rockabilly style since starting to go to roller derby, but mostly on the drag side of things because the femme fashions are all about Bettie and Dita and I'm neither pale nor hourglassy and while my hair's black, it's also less than an inch long.

Nevertheless, I've been swooning over the dresses at http://www.pinupgirlclothing.com, though I tend towards the more demure secretary styles by Stop Staring than all the spots and stripes that look like they ought be swinging.

Supplier/set information: These jeans are called "Lia Midnight", which pleased me. I've used these boots in a previous set, I'm sure -- they're so great. The belt on the skirt is nicer than the one on the top but this layout worked better. If anyone knows the name of those triangle-reinforced pockets, like on the shirt here, let me know. And the illustration is a Gil Elvgren, of course.

Cool down.

2009-01-17T18:21:00.000+11:00

Cool down. by quean

Winter street fashion, inspired by someone I spotted walking down my street changed my mind about skinny jeans tucked into knee-high boots. Her short tweed cape carried the look from trendy to timeless, and in all black and grey the overall effect was very chic. I've brought it back down to something more casual.

Little Birdy Blue.

2009-01-17T18:15:00.001+11:00

Little birdy blue. by quean

Doubles done differently -- one outfit in an L shape across the bottom left, another in a self-contained square in the top right corner.

Inspired by sailors, deer, walking down Brunswick St today, the song "Baby Blue" by Little Birdy, and the challenge of wearing shorts with heels.

(A bit behind on posting from Polyvore to here!)

Ch-ch-ch-changes.

2009-01-17T17:54:00.005+11:00

In the last year I've taken to wearing pants more often, and even bought my first pair of jeans in six years or so several months ago. Now I have three pairs: Grey Supre bootlegs, black Valleygirl skinny legs (emo jeans, I know! I was thinking of developing an emo boi drag character so I justified them on that account ... yeah) and these awesome wide-leg, dark wash Gwendolynne for Target ones. I've also been favouring my Gap navy striped trousers and Dangerfield black cotton drill pants. All second-hand, of course -- five pairs of jeans and pants for under $35 seems pretty good to me! I think part of the reason I'd been sticking to skirts was that it's much harder to find pants I like in my size in op shops -- a skirt that's a size too big will usually just sit a bit lower and be a little looser, but ill-fitting pants look really silly. Besides which there's generally a better selection of vintage skirts than pants.

I also finally got a pair of boots last summer, in a Chinese winter -- flat black lace-up ankle boots, in lovely soft leather, exactly as I wanted except that the lace holes didn't have rivets while the hooks for the upper laces were silver, which was an issue for me until my lover and mother and the sales assistant all convinced me I was being insane. Anyhow, people with size 35 feet can't be choosy. But then I managed to score a pair of black 25-up Docs at Camberwell markets for $10, was given a pair of maroon 10-up Docs from a friend who found them at the tip (!), got a pair of boxing boots at the RSPCA op shop for $1, and dark green knee-high stilettos at Camby markets for $4, so now suddenly I find myself with five pairs of boots and not one pair of the black ballet flats or mary janes that were my default for so many years. In fact, I have no black flats at all. Shock horror.

So mostly these changes in my style have been the result of thrifting accidents, but one thing that's been quite decisive is the hair. In three years I've gone from waist-length to shaved, with stops in between at so many variations of a flapperish bob (I'd visited that station during high school too) and several nameless, indescribable hairstyles thanks to a bunch of friends and acquaintances I've let near my hair with scissors, clippers and razors. From afar, it appears like the whole process (skirts to pants, mary janes to boots, long hair to short) could be described as one of my gradual but insistent "butching up". But then I'm wearing more make-up than ever (not difficult as ever was usually none), more fitted clothing, and definitely spending more time thinking about aesthetics. So butching up, maybe, but dandying up too.

The other thing is that I think I'm more aware of trends than I used to be (when I was so self-consciously counter-culture and alternative and whatever, and would never have subscribed to the Vogue forums) but tend to buy clothes that I could still see myself wearing in several years time. I'm trying to build up my wardrobe to have all the things I consider "basics" (eg white shirt, black blazer, LBD, cream trench, good underwear, bags and belts) and select a few different looks or moods to maintain instead of just buying random novelty items that I can't wear with anything I already have. I still almost never buy retail (except for underwear and hosiery) and I still flinch to think of spending more than $10 on anything.

How has your style changed?

And just so this isn't a text-only entry, here's a pic of me frocked up for a Vulgargrad gig at the Spiegeltent last year. And yes, I can ride my bike in corset, top hat and heels (though I had flats on for dancing that day).

Everyday a-go-go.

2008-11-05T00:00:00.001+11:00

Everyday go. by quean

An attempt at representing an "everyday" outfit for me, though such a thing doesn't really exist. But if I'm running out of the house, half an hour late (common practice for me) and have to throw on an outfit that looks halfway decent without thinking about it, it'll typically be a skirt, tee, stockings and flats.

That skirt will usually be full and fall to the knee, as anything too short scares me and anything longer requires fussing around with jackets, while knee-length will work with either my trench (also knee-length) or any number of cardigans.

Tees will be fitted but not tight, with cap sleeves and either a v-neck or crew neck -- nothing else is flattering. Apart from stripes, spots and the occasional political slogan, all my tees are plain.

Stockings will be brightly coloured, and often patterned or textured. Shoes will be flat so as to facilitate running for the tram. Hopefully I will already have all necessities in a wristlet, ready to throw into a bag, and now that I have a shorn head, I can show off big jewellery, but I'll rarely wear more than one piece, if any at all. It's nice not to have earrings get stuck in my hair though.

Specs will have been put on whenever I tumbled out of bed. The default ones are square black plastic frames with thin white lines over the top edge, but I have a couple of spares thanks to my darling mother and her recent sojourn overseas.

So this is what I look like on days where I don't have time to play. When I do, well, then anything goes.

Hat tricks.

2008-11-04T23:57:00.003+11:00

Hat tricks. by quean

Subtle and, well, not so subtle. An entry for the Polyvore-hosted Birds of a Feather contest.

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I've been entering lots of contests lately, because I find it easier to do a set around a theme or after some kind of stimulus than just to style from scratch. Plus it means I end up with a more varied Polyvore folio (heh!) instead of just lots of cloches and high-waisted, wide-legged trousers. But if there's anything you'd like to see my try, feel free to request something.

Cut your losses.

2008-11-04T23:55:00.000+11:00

Cut your losses. by quean

Yet another entry for the Spring Racing Carnival contest on the Australian Voguettes group, this one is racewear on a budget.

This set comes to $185, but I totally think you could get a whole brand new outfit for under $50 if you had the time, but suburban op shops don't have web sites I can nab pics from to make sets with on Polyvore.

You see vintage frame purses in op shops all the time though, for about $3 -- beaded, glomesh, or woven. Likewise you can get really nice jewellery from markets and op shops for under $10, such as enamel and filigree brooches. Fascinators and headbands are easy to make yourself from haberdashery bits for under $20. And anyways, unless you get a dress in a style and colour you never normally wear, you'd probably already have a couple of accessories to go with it.

Through making this set I realised that neither Diva nor Target Australia have web sites that you can clip from. Boo.

Horsing around

2008-11-03T15:00:00.001+11:00

Horsing around. by quean

A third entry for the Spring Racing contest on the Australian Voguettes group ... I'm really getting into this one! I've never been to the Melbourne Cup and I have no desire to go, but hats and frocks is a combination I like.

Anyway, two takes on the same colour scheme -- the left is more my usual style but I think here I prefer the right.

Taking a gamble.

2008-11-03T14:58:00.000+11:00

Taking a gamble. by quean

Another entry for the Melbourne Cup contest in the Australian Voguettes group. This one inspired by bold clashing colours. I don't know that I'd ever attempt forest green eyeshadow and fuschia nailpolish simultaneously myself, but I like it in theory.

Sock hop, frock rock.

2008-11-03T14:56:00.000+11:00

Sock hop, frock rock. by quean

Another entry for the Red Coat contest on the Polywhores group, indie instead of goth.

(I've noticed that short skirts, big shirts, heeled shoe-boots with tights, small shoulder bags, leather and the colour brown seem to be really trendy at the moment within indie scenes -- is that true or just me?)

A Day at the Races.

2008-11-01T17:35:00.000+11:00

A Day at the Races. by quean

Entry for the Melbourne Cup contest in the Australian Voguettes group -- a coral-toned, retro-themed set with all the vintage goodies I'd love to see come back: parasols, gloves, cuban heeled seamed stockings and, of course, opera glasses.

This is a colour I'd never think to wear, and I don't think it'd suit my complexion, but on someone who has fair skin with pink undertones, or dark brown skin, I think it could be quite lovely.

I wanted a pillbox for this but couldn't find one that suited, and on second thought it would be too much, costumey instead of vintage-inspired.

Red top.

2008-11-01T17:26:00.002+11:00

Red top. by quean

Entry for the Red Coat contest in the Polywhores group.

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I love each individual item here but I'm not sure how it works as a set.

Hep to burn.

2008-11-01T17:24:00.001+11:00

Hep to burn. by quean

I've been making so many fussy femme sets lately, I thought it was high time for some hot butch action -- but classy, vintage, Katharine Hepburn style butch, none of this modern madness. I know, I'm picky, but I like my macho women in French cuffs and tailored slacks and haughty independence, not flannel and ripped denim and grease stains. Though it has to be said, there's nothing like a lady bent over an engine ...

Ahem. The umbrella is decorative -- I should think my dandy lass wouldn't mind getting a little wet. The pearl would be worn under the collar, hidden against the skin. And the cigar -- well. I'll leave that up to you.

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I've shifted from thinking of gender as something stupid foisted upon us that I want to resist, to something potentially fun, playful and sexy that I can enjoy.

Siren sound.

2008-11-01T17:21:00.002+11:00

Siren sound. by quean

Another entry for the Gilt Groupe contest. I had fun laying this out to my OC designs. Dressing to show off curves and cash is not my style at all, but I do think this is kind of hot in its own strange way.

Stormy weather.

2008-11-01T17:19:00.001+11:00

Stormy weather. by quean

About time I did a set with this Tsumori Chisato dress, I've been in love with this print since I saw it (I've previously made a menswear set using a tee with the same print in greenish tones). And I've been doing so many elegant black sets lately, the time seemed ripe for something a little more spunky. Fish on your feet, sky above your head, clouds on your body and stars on your legs -- what more could you want from an outfit?

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I am a fan of dressing to a theme.

Oysters and stardust.

2008-10-21T18:20:00.002+11:00

Oysters and stardust. by quean

My partner said, "I like pearls. I think it's a good metaphor for criticism."

And I thought, yes. From a seed of irritation we might build something shimmering and grand.

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I'm a fan of this silver/stone/black combination, and the 1950s tribute of a full skirt paired with a crop cardigan, but I'm not happy with the clutch and I'm not certain that pendant wouldn't compete with the neckline in an awkward fashion.

Arrivederci, RM by Roland Mouret, and styling feature pieces.

2008-10-21T17:44:00.004+11:00

Arrivederci. by quean

An outfit for a lady who is prepared to leave her old life behind, but for the letters and photographs hidden in the lining of her bag. As the horn sounds she wraps her coat tight and looks into the distance. There's no one to bid her farewell. Only the journey ahead.

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Not exactly a challenge, but Jackie commented on the Camper shoes I featured in a previous post, and I started to think about how else they could be styled. I like outfits that have one or two feature pieces that are foregrounded by other pieces being simpler, but still fitting -- I find it awkward though, to see something really spectacular worn with an outfit that is otherwise too plain. It's difficult to explain the difference. There's probably no infallible recipe for it, but sometimes colours, shapes and textures just come together to my taste, and other times something will be off.

Anyway, the point is that I wouldn't wear these shoes with an all black or all white outfit (particularly not black), but I think you only need one other splash of colour to balance them out. It doesn't need to match, either -- I just happened to think of this scarf among my unused items in Polyvore, but purple and pale orange tones might have worked too.

The dress is RM by Roland Mouret, from the Pre-Fall 2008 collection, which has already been worn by dozens of celebrities, despite being a little too similar to earlier collections in my mind. Nevertheless, they are gorgeously cut creations, with a lovely silhouette and elegant origami detailing. I especially liked the dress from his 2008 Spring collection that Rosamund Pike wore to the BAFTAs earlier this year, though it wasn't really appropriate for a red carpet event of that scale. (Pics below, via Red Carpet Fashion Awards and WendyLady2.) Very chic and femme with a vintage feel -- and for the win, it makes me think of stenographers. You know how I like stenographers.

You can view the full collection at Style.com.

Red carpet black.

2008-10-18T00:14:00.008+11:00

Classic versus trendy. I'm not too happy with either of these sets but I thought I should do something with the giant collection of black dresses I've built up in my saved items. I do love that Dior ring and the YSL envelope purse. And I'm always a fan of a sweet little minaudiere.

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I'd go the trendy side for sure, in this one, although the shoes are not what I wanted (I'd started with these Miss Sixty heels, but then I realised they were printed on the side which I think is gross -- still, I had wanted a harder, gladiator look). I can imagine it on someone who's quite classically beautiful but going for a more interesting look, like Charlize Theron seems to be doing these days. Speaking of which, I actually really like this dress.

Now that I've outed myself as someone who follows celebrity fashion, I may as well share some of my real life picks for red carpet blacks.

anonymous - Cannes 2007

I don't know who this is in this crazy film strip dress, but it's just the sort of fabulous, daring thing one should bring out for Cannes. This is one of my all-time red carpet winners.

Vanessa Paradis - Oscars 2008

I have a feeling this is vintage Chanel but I can't remember where I read that. In any case it's beautiful and elegant without being dull. My only gripe is that it's perhaps a touch too sombre.

Eva Green - all the freakin' time

Now you all know I have a mad crush on Eva Green, so this might be a touch biased. Most of these pics are nabbed from Red Carpet Fashion Awards -- a great blog on my watchlist. Anyway, apparently Eva is famous for wearing black on the red carpet. And Dior, but I'm not sure if that's mutual admiration or because she's under contract.

Here she is at the Golden Compass New York Premiere, in Dior Fall 2007.

I think this is gorgeous, dramatic and so classy. Next up she's in Dior Spring 2007, at the launch of something or other.

For some people this might be too casual but I think it's just right for a launch -- I feel like overly fussy gowns should be reserved for awards ceremonies and maybe big premieres. The bling totally carries this from sassy streetwear to defiant glam.

The next one is Eva at the 2008 Baftas:

Dior Spring 2008, again -- this one's too funereal for me. A pity because it's so gorgeous, and I want to love it, but long-sleeved, floor-length black is too much. The neckline could have brought back from the dead but it just rings of a suit jacket. I can't imagine this dress working any other way, either -- it's really perfect as it is -- but it just seems wrong for the occasion.

This one's at another launch, designer unknown. Some hated this but I'm a sucker for a crazy big collar (like Heidi Klum's red dress at the 2008 Oscars) and I love it. And it's so good to see sequins used in a way that's neither tacky nor fussy.

Diane Kruger - GQ Gentlemen's Ball 2008

I have no fucking clue who Diane Kruger is but she's been dressing gorgeously of late. This isn't red carpet but I had to show it -- it's so damn cool, down to the bobby pin in her hair. Love the nude make up. Not sure about the shoes but they're forgiveable.

Then there's the Dior Fall 2008 Couture dress she wore to the Venice Film Festival.

Go Fug Yourself loved it then hated it when they realised that the skirt was transparent, Red Carpet Fashion Awards loved it anyway and named it their pick of the week. I think I like it regardless. God knows I love her pretty bowed slingbacks. What do you think?

Stenographer.

2008-10-17T16:38:00.002+11:00

Stenographer. by quean

Qwerty chic in classic blacks. Because I want to hear you shout, in the bath, "I'm your secretary".

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This is one of my favourite sets ever, and pretty definitive of my tastes. (Can you say "definitive of"?) Tailored, textured, with a dash of vintage and some kooky on the side. Femme but not girly, hard-edged, deliberate femme that knows where it's going, like if you fuck with her you'll meet the sharp end of that umbrella.

Fruit bowl.

2008-10-17T16:17:00.004+11:00

Fruit bowl. by quean

Entry for the Gilt Groupe contest (all items except text from Gilt.com). I love the floral trim on this dress, it really makes it for me.

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I've become aware that I'm using heaps more designer items lately, which I feel stupidly guilty about -- I mean, I never made a rule against it (in fact, my second Polyvore set featured Louboutin heels and a Roberto Cavalli dress) but I had been trying to promote little indie designers and avoid looks that couldn't be remade from op shop bargain bins. Which isn't much of an effort because almost any look can be thrifted, except perhaps an exact copy of this $783 Anna Sui organza cocktail dress or some of the other dresses I've been lusting over -- (mostly Alexander McQueen, Diane von Furstenberg and Vivienne Westwood -- and also those sessy Hervé Léger bandage dresses though I'd never wear them myself). But then I remember that Polyvore's my way of playing with fashion without exchanging currency, so I guess it's alright. I mean, sure, I'm giving all these corporations free advertising, but none of my friends reading this could afford this stuff anyway, and it's better than eBay, eh?

Never come undone.

2008-10-17T16:15:00.000+11:00

Never come undone. by quean

Entry for La Garçonne contest. Based on a notion of elegance as a sort of readiness -- composure, gravity, grace, to be light but not loose, easy but not free.

I had to include a bow as in the site's icon -- I imagine it worn as a brooch in the middle of the shirt, just under the opening of the neck, but it might also work elsewhere.

Black and brown.

2008-10-17T15:46:00.002+11:00

Black and brown. by quean

I had mocked my friend for wearing brown shoes with an otherwise all black outfit. He laughed at me, and the very next day I saw a beautiful boy all in black but for his tan leather cowboy boots, belt and satchel bag. Something like this.

It helped that he was terrifically gorgeous, and a fine arts student (I'm a sucker for anyone carrying a folio), and that brown in this case was less a colour than a texture, with all the lovely associations of tan leather, both luxe and casual, boyish and old-timey, intensely urban and coolly rural. Sings of lonely days on an open road, and a cigarette in the alley before the next set. Guitars. Deserts. Unsent letters. Yeah.

The fashion god's punishment for my arrogant rule-making, I guess. May I never commit such a misdeed again. But I'm glad I've learned to love black and brown together. I think this is the start of something splendid.

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I really enjoy making menswear sets because everyday men's clothing (that, say, more than 5% of the male population would consider wearing) is so subtle, which makes every nuance in tailoring really count.

I mean, if you walk through the city on any given day, you're likely to see at least a dozen necklines for women, while for men you'd be lucky to find six: crew neck, polo neck, v-neck, turtleneck, and the classic shirt collar. You might spot some trendy young thing in a scoop neck tank (uggh), or a South Asian man (or hippie) in a tunic or shirt with a split collar -- though that's really just a variation on either a crew neck or mandarin collar. Jackets have various types of lapels, mandarin collars, or no collar at all. To pull a statistic out of thin air, I'd estimate at least eight in ten men I encounter on an average day are wearing a crew-neck tee (short or long-sleeved), a hoodie (zip or pullover), a collared shirt, a suit jacket, or some combination of those four items. In summer I'd add a Bond's singlet to that basic set, and in winter some form of coat (in which you'll probably find the greatest variation there is in everyday menswear).

So every little thing counts. I really like v-neck t-shirts because they're just a little more interesting than a crew neck, without being overtly fashionable if that's not what you're going for. French cuffs or extravagantly wide cuffs make me grin. And I have strong aversions to tiny details, too: Two breast pockets on any shirt that's not cowboy style? No. Cargo-style pockets? No. Large prints? No. Button-down collars? Fuck no. All these judgements go for women's clothing, too, (except for two breast pockets, that would be okay on a safari/nurse dress but not a shirt I think) but they're much more important when there's such little variation in the first place.

However, I don't buy into the only fashion debate that most men do willingly engage in -- the hierarchy of t-shirts. I think Stuff White People Like says everything that needs to be said on that topic.

Easy Autumn.

2008-10-17T15:43:00.002+11:00

Easy autumn. by quean

A casual, preppy autumn set for the Charlotte Russe contest.

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I very nearly went the overkill with autumnal tones, but in the end decided to go a black and white with just a couple of colour highlights.

New York.

2008-10-17T15:33:00.002+11:00

New York. by quean

Art deco for the streetwise modern gal. An entry for the Fashion Capitals contest on Polyvore, inspired by New York architecture and attitude.

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This is quite a departure from my usual style -- much more trend-conscious and label-heavy with the S&B black rats and Prada shoe-boots, and I have to say I can only see this tunic/legging combination working on someone with a catwalk model figure. But I really love this set, this sort of expensive but streetwise look, all tough and luxe and I-don't-give-a-fuck-because-I-have-a-Rolls-Royce-on-my-Marc-Jacobs-bag.

Quite a pair.

2008-10-17T15:29:00.003+11:00

Quite a pair. by quean

Blue, black and gold versus red, white and navy.

It's a showdown between two popular tattoo motifs, two focal pieces of jewellery, two hot frocks and two pairs of crazy amazing shoes.

Supplier information: Bag and shoes on the blue side are vintage. Sailor purse, charm bracelet and swallow necklace all by independent designers, and the necklace is made from recycled materials (vinyl records!).

--

I think the blue side wins for me, but only because I don't have the dainty nose and hourglass figure to pull off any rockabilly look.

Cool springs.

2008-10-17T15:25:00.002+11:00

Cool springs. by quean

Spring's come, and it feels good! I hadn't realised how much the weather had got me down until I found myself feeling inexplicably happy when walking down a sunny street with cherry blossoms in bloom. So this is my set for the start of Spring, when it's still cool but full of light, and the flowers are making themselves quietly known, and I can finally go out in skirts without stockings.

The shirt would be tucked into the culottes but with the scarf out -- I couldn't layer the pictures. I'm a big fan of culottes but the one pair I have sit funny on my hips. I saw these Camper shoes in the window of Sole Devotion the other day and while I don't think I could carry them off myself, they definitely make me smile.

--

I'm way behind in updating this blog -- I made this set on Polyvore a month ago, when it actually was just the start of Spring. I love these sunglasses so much. The octagon is definitely an underappreciated shape.

Lately III.

2008-09-06T12:43:00.007+10:00

Far too lazy to post what I'm wearing on a daily basis, so you'll have to make do with these mass posts.

Daily outfit (Wednesday 27 August):

black and white mod shift dress -- RSPCA op shop, $1
black and white beads looped together -- thrifted some time ago
red lace-edged footless tights -- Target, $1.50
wide black elastic belt -- RSPCA op shop, $1
pointy black kitten heels -- a vintage shop in Hobart, $12

I bought this dress some months ago but hadn't got around to wearing it. I love black and white beads looped together but on second thought I decided to add a third colour and a belt. The look is a bit too trendy for me, I think. If I have time I'll shorten this dress a tad.

Daily outfit (Saturday 30 August):

grey silk tuxedo/kimono shirt -- RSPCA op shop, $2.50
near-black trousers -- Gap via vintage stall in campus markets, $6
grey organic cotton tank -- part of Gorman pyjama set, $10
dark grey double-strand pearls -- present from my mother

Sorry this photo is so dodgy! The streaks on the shirt are from the light reflecting off the mirror -- I really have to work out a better way to take photos. If only I had a tripod. Anyway, I just got this shirt last week and I absolutely love it, though it's a bitch to iron. It's an example of what I was saying in a previous post about awesome being better than sexy. Long, loose shirts don't particularly flatter my figure but who can resist a shirt inspired by both the tuxedo and the kimono, in dove grey silk? I felt like Lee-Lin Chin, except that in being infinitely more awesome than me, she'd probably have grey highlights in her hair to match, and entirely fabulous glasses frames.

Daily outfit (Sunday 31 August):

navy wool cape -- Camby markets, $2 (plus op-shopped buttons)
brown pleather bag -- RSPCA op shop, $3.50

I've always wanted a cape. It's "free size", which means somewhat too big for me, but oh-so-awesome. I think it would look better with bronze buttons though -- what do you think? (I'm a bit particular about buttons, have you noticed?)

I really ought'nt have got the bag as multiple bags make leaving the house so much more difficult, but it's so versatile, brown and plain with about a billion compartments, though it zips the wrong way which bugs me a little, but it was cheap and ... no excuses really, just a ridiculous impulse buy.

This last photo is an outfit I haven't worn out -- I just wanted to show off my corset and plug Dolly Q who made it. Front busk, back-lacing, and 18 steel bones. It's not bulletproof but it feels it. I think I'll wear it with my 20-up steel-capped Docs to feel close to invincible.

Lady Grey.

2008-09-03T12:55:00.002+10:00

Another pink and grey set, this one somewhat Victorian and with black highlights. Two bags to choose from -- I think I prefer the one on the right. Lots of contrasting textures.

Lingerie by Brisbane-based boutique Sex Kitten, which in decor and web site design looks alarmingly like Melbourne lingerie boutique Smitten Kitten. Barbie cameo by Tarina Tarantino, brooch by Chanel. (You can always click on the set for all the information on each item and supplier links.)

--

Following from the previous post, this one is an example of femme toughened up with greys and blacks, sharper lines and heavier fabrics. It still veers towards burlesque because I went overboard with matchy-matchy accessories, but bling aside I think it achieves the balance that classical aesthetics dictate.

Princess darling.

2008-09-03T12:41:00.003+10:00

Another entry for the Steampunk Ball -- this one's so femme it's drag.

--

Pearls and parasols, lace and ribbons and bows. I like exploring how gender is rendered in clothing -- if you go too far it seems to tear it all apart. If a strong-jawed woman with thick eyebrows wore this, what would the effect be? A conflict between face and frippery. More discomforting, probably than if a feminine boy wore the same outfit -- looking something like this -- which a good number of people would find sexy in a somewhat alarming way, like Mystique in X-Men is sexy. A good femme outfit needs a little toughening up, so not to tiptoe over into the field of burlesque, which is just cisgender drag.

Girls in love.

2008-09-03T12:30:00.003+10:00

I've been watching a film called The Incredibly True Adventures of Two Girls in Love, except I'm less than halfway through because the DVD is playing up. Anyway, I thought I'd make a set for young lovers, all cute and colourful without being too twee or covered in rainbow hearts, appropriate for a mid adolescent wearer. I also didn't want to play into the butch-femme dichotomy, so they're both a bit girly without being super-femme. I really like that the heart necklace brings together the colours of both outfits.

The khaki hi-tops are hemp No Sweat, and the mary-janes are by Camper, which seem to have pretty decent social and environmental credentials though I don't think they're actually no-sweat accredited.

--

I finished the film -- it's ridiculously cute, and hilariously awkward. Some of the awkwardness is perfect, just capturing the clumsiness of the first stages of any relationship, especially early relationships. But at times the script just seems off. One of the first scenes between the girls, in the school bathroom, didn't ring true for me at all. And as my lover pointed out, when together the girls are too similar in their speech and mannerisms -- though their characters come out more when they're apart, and the scenes with their respective families are fantastic. All in all, it's a lovely film, and both the girls are gorgeous and very good in their parts. Definite cause for a bit of "aww".

Mad hat.

2008-09-03T12:20:00.005+10:00

Menswear entry for the Steampunk Ball contest -- inspired by Lewis Carroll and City of Lost Children.

--

I loved Jeunet & Caro's films when I was a teenager, but hadn't rewatched them until recently when my partner rented out Delicatessen, and I fell in love with them all over again. I tend to watch whimsical indie flicks or heavy-hearted foreign dramas, and neither of which necessarily subscribe to a doctrine of realism (except perhaps the occasional Dogme 95 film), but nor do they transport you to some fantastical place like Jeunet & Caro. So, sometime soon I'm going to watch City of Lost Children again, and in the meantime, here's an outfit for a madcap mind with a time machine (such as a pocket watch).

Peacock and crow.

2008-09-02T00:44:00.001+10:00

Jewel colours versus all blacks. Shiny versus matte. Square versus round. Hard versus soft.

Birds of a feather may flock together, but contrasting plumage makes each wing shine brighter.

--

The third of the birdie sets.

She got cocky.

2008-09-02T00:41:00.002+10:00

There's been heaps of great peacock-themed sets around -- check out the Polyvore blog post here: http://blog.polyvore.com/2008/08/birds-of-feather-flock-together.html

I tried to make this a bit more of a challenge by limiting myself to one item with the image of a peacock and one item featuring peacock feathers. The rest just make me think of peacocks, somehow -- the colour gradient of the earrings, the feathering of the lashes, the drape of the shirt.

Great Galah.

2008-09-02T00:37:00.000+10:00

I saw a flock of galahs on my way to uni the other day, and thought, gosh, what a stylish bird. Pink and grey is really an excellent colour combination. So here's a set inspired by galahs. With two choices of shoe.

Flutterby.

2008-09-01T12:08:00.004+10:00

I found this ridiculous, fabulous dress the other day and had to make a set with it. Managed to pair it with some items I've been waiting to use for a while now (I finally organised all the items I've been adding).

--

This is the second butterfly-themed set I've made (here's the other), even though I'm not that big a fan of butterflies. It only took five or ten minutes to make so I don't mind if it doesn't get any attention -- though already it has one favourite which is equal to Art Star, my first menswear set that I thought was pretty awesome (c'mon, it referenced Barbara Krueger, Piet Mondrian and Roy Lichtenstein!). Again, I think it's much harder to get menswear noticed on Polyvore than a pretty dress -- though probably that's because in thumbnail view, most menswear looks more or less the same unless it's something that looks straight out of a movie set. Not that I have a problem with that. Hose is sexy.

(Not that he's wearing hose here, but meh. Leonard Whiting in Zeffirelli's 1968 Romeo and Juliet -- it's all cleavage, codpieces and contrasting hose. Awesome. Olivia Hussey as Juliet is rather nice to watch also. Leonard reminds me a little of Gael Garcia Bernal in that last one, actually.)

I saw the most alarmingly beautiful man walking down Swanston St the other day. A tall black man with short hair dressed in slacks, white shirt with pale blue stripes, woollen vest and a navy cap like the white ones Ralph Lauren designed for the American Olympians' opening ceremony uniform. Casual in that 1948 yacht club way which makes me throw class politics out the window and swoon (something like a certain group of Cambridge graduates, then -- though they were all commies so maybe that's okay?).

I think it's a good general rule that anyone who looks like they might be from another era is worth your time. I mean, they might be the Doctor.

Little Drummer Girl.

2008-09-01T12:05:00.001+10:00

Make some noise! I really like this top, I'm surprised it's by Volcom; I thought they only made boring hoodies and caps. The boots are vegan -- I was going to use sneakers but steel-caps are so much cooler. I realise the nails are incredibly impractical, but awesome nevertheless (in some part due to their impracticality), and I stand by them. Or at least the idea of magnificent and ridiculous nail decoration, though I can't even be bothered to file mine myself.

Inspired by Hannelore of webcomic Questionable Content (the bowler can be her new worry hat). Lyrics by Wilco.

Rich.

2008-09-01T11:54:00.003+10:00

Entry for Crinoline's Steampunk Ball competition in the Steampunk group, except apart from the charm and coat it's not very steampunk at all -- though I wonder if in Victorian times this is what the future might have looked like to some people. I liked the idea of a beautiful but sedate coat hiding so much glitz underneath, but I don't think it really works as a whole. Dior colours.

--

I have six favourites on this already which I think makes it one of my most popular sets, and it's probably the one I'm least happy with of what I've done recently. I think Polyvore tends to privilege formal wear though -- I know I'm more likely to click on a glitzy gown than any set involving denim, even though the latter may be a lot more creative. It's pretty easy to match some bling to a dress that speaks for itself, and much more difficult to make something really stylish and unique from chain store basics and street denim.

Lately II

2008-08-28T13:21:00.002+10:00

continued ...

Daily outfit (Sunday 17 August):

black dress -- Camby markets, $4
maroon patterned tights -- I forget, probably a Myer hosiery sale
blue vintage heels - RSPCA shop, $3 maybe

All I can say is that I love this dress. It's a really beautiful cut and so comfortable. I think I should replace the buttons with white pearl ones though -- what do you think? Currently they're half pearls in a sort of magenta colour.

I love these shoes too even though they don't go with the dress at all. I thought my pointed black kitten heels would make it a bit uptight though.

Daily outfit (Thursday 21 August):

black riding coat -- Fitzroy Hunter Gatherer, $20
black cheesecloth shirt -- Review via MSA Survival Centre
black velvet double-tiered skirt -- Collingwood Salvo's, $6
black opaques -- Target, $1.80
black ankle boots -- a little shoe shop in Shanghai, about $15

For no particular reason on this day I just decided to goth the fuck up. I'd bought the skirt recently to wear with my new corset (yet to be seen by the wider public) and picked up the shirt at the student union Survival Centre (a welfare department service) when dropping off some of my unwanted clothes. I've had the jacket for years but sort of forgotten about it as it's a little big for me and only really works with knee-length full skirts, but I rediscovered it after lending it to my baby sister (who's taller than me already, at age 11) for a school dress up day (she went as a Suffragette, how fucking awesome is my sister?).

Sorry for my photos always being crap!

Daily outfit (Sunday 24 August):

red jumper -- hand-me-downs from Lauren's family friend
spotted cotton box-pleat skirt -- hand-me-downs from my mother's friend
teal tights -- Target, $2
red ankle-wrap velcro shoes -- children's department of a Chinese shoe store, about $10
blue elephant badge -- Sticky Institute

I quite like this skirt (it's navy with red and white spots) but I rarely wear it because it always requires ironing. The jumper is great -- it has a square neck and pointed sleeves, with ribbing around neckline, hem and sleeves. I tend to get forget jumpers and prefer cardigans until I remember that you can wear them with just a singlet or tank underneath, which solves the issue of competing necklines.

Ta-ta for now!

Lately.

2008-08-27T13:32:00.012+10:00

What I've been wearing lately ....

Daily outfit (Wednesday 13 August):

printed chiffon shirt - Cat's Whiskers via Camby markets, $1
black drill pants -- Dangerfield via Camby markets, $2

The only prints I've worn for years are stripes, spots and perhaps occasionally checks or houndstooth. Coloured prints scare me. So I'm not sure about this shirt (the neckline is unusual for me too, and I think it must be too big because I realised later there was a side zip that hadn't seen, which suggests it's supposed to be a tighter fit) but it's kind of fun. I'm a big fan of light-as-a-dream chiffon shirts, and maroon and navy have somehow become my dominant palette this winter.

Daily outfit (Thursday 14 August):

keyhole polka dot dress -- Burnie Salvo's, $1
purple opaques -- Target, $2
black blazer -- Miss Cherry via Camby Markets, $2

Burnie op shops seem to be heaps cheaper than Melbourne ones (though maybe that's because I rarely travel past the Met web in Melbs) and like with outer suburb op shops, it takes a bit more hunting but you're more likely to come away with something great than in the inner city where vintage resellers and a greater concentration of savvy shoppers snatch up everything interesting really quickly. Sizing is tricky, though -- I think everything I bought was from the kids' section. Kids' dresses often work well for me anyway because they're a straighter fit, like a cheongsam, and come in fantastic colours and prints.

The blazer's part of my massive Camby markets haul -- I was lemming a casual black blazer so I was really chuffed to find so cheap that fit. If only I can find a formal one (single button, rounded hem, velvet trim or satin lapels) I will truly feel blessed by Fashionista Fortuna.

I've been stocking up on hose from Target lately -- a whole bunch are reduced to around $2, though in the city store I had to really scrummage to find ones that weren't footless. But I've ended up with purple, fuschia, smoky blue (different to the teal ones I already have, I swear!) and navy -- all opaques -- and shiny red lace trimmed footless ones. Walking around Target on these hosiery expeditions I'm surprised by their range -- I think a lot of their clothing looks better than what's in chainstores like Sportsgirl at the moment, in design and quality, at much smaller prices (though still too much for me given that I'm kind of fascistically frugal). And they have organics. I'm pretty sure it's all sweatshop but so are all those chainstores -- even the Australian made brands use outworker labour with pretty poor pay and conditions. Not that I think Target is ethical by any means, but it frustrates me when people are snobbish about brands on the basis of ethics, when actually most high end fashion has atrocious labour practices and the only designers with any commitment to ethical production are probably a handful of mid-range labels more or less dedicated to ethical consumerism (as problematic as that is in itself) apart from a couple of notable exceptions like Lisa Gorman and Stella McCartney (and I don't even know much about either of them).

Links:
No Sweat Shop Label
FairWear

I'm giggling now because Spellcheck suggested "fascistic ally" for "fascistically". I was hoping it might suggest "fantastically".

More to come ...

Poor guru: How to dress up from down.

2008-08-26T22:04:00.005+10:00

It's been really cold recently, so for the most part I've just been wearing trousers, boots, and jacket, with layered shirts and jumpers. There's nothing wrong with everyday casual dressing, but whenever I wear something a bit more speccy I realise how much it affects my mood. And it's not just about feeling confident because you look hot -- while that's pleasing in its own way, there are some things I love to wear that I know don't particularly suit my body shape and colouring, but I'd rather be awesome than sexy. That is to say: Any opportunity to stride out with top hat and cane should be taken by the horns.

I like to dress somewhat thematically, if not in outright costumes. If I'm feeling anti-social, the only thing that can get me out of the house is going undercover in two hoodies, cotton drill pants and docs -- when I first discovered this outfit, I wouldn't even be recognised at uni if I kept the hood up. (Unfortunately, I've been feeling anti-social often enough that this has sort of become my uniform.) Or if I want a quick fix pick me up, I wear brightly coloured hose and novelty earrings -- red dice or silver spinning whales. Sometimes the attempt at sartorial therapy can fail, as in recent times my leaving-the-house ritual has become so complex as to aid my mild agoraphobia.

But for the most part, dressing up means feeling better. So here comes my first crap advice column:

How to ... dress up from down.

(The title is a piss-take of the "Getting Up From Down", a series of depression workshops the university counselling service was running.)

Often I roll out of bed in a funk, or more likely hide under the doonah hoping the day will go away. And I think about what I need to do that day, which generally fills me with dread and totally irrational anxiety. I can while away hours lying in bed tying my mind in knots. Mental paralysis is my superpower (my superpowers are pretty much all neuroses, yeah). One of my more common methods is wondering what I'll wear, because after taking into consideration availability, weather, and social and practical requirements, I'll manage to convince myself that I can't get out of bed because I don't have a knee-length skirt with pockets, as I can't dance in trousers and if I don't have pockets I can't cloak my bag and I can't wear my waistcoat because that's too much of a dyke cliche, etc etc. Like I said, it's a superpower.

So here's what I've learned about managing to leave the house with a bounce in your step, with only prescription drugs, half a cup of coffee and fifteen minutes of vanity.

don't default to something dull because it's cold or wet or you're running late -- think up a bunch of awesome ensembles for any situation so you can throw on a zombie bride outfit as quickly as any jeans and tee combo
play around with new items when you get them, so you're not working out how to incorporate them into your wardrobe half an hour after you were supposed to leave the house -- even the simplest things are worth experimenting with so you know the shape, length and colour well enough to match it in your head without involving your body -- also, blacks don't all match!
organise accessories so you can easily embellish -- scarf, hose and bangles make a plain skirt + shirt combo into an outfit
scarves are a godsend for bad hair (tie in a triangle, turban or wide headband), boring short hair (thin headband knotted with bow or loose ends) , not enough colour (all the obvious ways, as a belt, as a bracelet, even tied to your bag) and overly structured outfits (tie in pussy bow over a collared shirt). they create vertical lines and cover too much décolletage or a mess of mismatched necklines (i always have this problem with mid-winter layering!).
shoes make a bucketload of difference -- hard soles make me tap-click away in self-conscious delight, heels force me to walk more deliberately, and steel-capped boots make me feel fucking invincible (and a little bit violent)
if you've fallen in a rut, break the pattern drastically -- go out in full drag, whatever that's become for you
leave the house without a bag whenever you can
things that make me feel instantly awesome: walking length umbrellas (mine is patterned with red and gold wattle), suspenders (holding up either trousers or stockings), knee high boots, corset, tie, pearls.
clothes should be fun to wear as well as comfortable and comforting -- even if you're just going to the supermarket, there's no reason not to roll out a frock covered in pink polka dots and punk it up with boots and rockstar sunnies -- in fact, all the more reason to play if you're going to be doing something dreary like grocery shopping
if all else fails, just wear hot underwear and something that you can rip off in a second so all day you can imagine you are just about to start a torrid affair

Fashion versus feminism.

2008-08-26T19:18:00.003+10:00

My internet connection has slowed down to a drawl at the moment, so I figured I'd do a couple of text posts I've been thinking about but putting off. Time for a spot of editorialising, no?

I feel a tad embarrassed to speak of this blog, though really I think it's a splendid thing. But it does seem like there's some inherent contradiction in being a feminist fashionista -- especially a vaguely socialistic, queer woman of colour feminist.

And mostly that's fine and fair. I have good reason to feel silly making Polyvore sets using $900 4-inch heels, with all the clothes photographed on 6ft size 6 mannequins, but it's not like I have model proportions and Louboutins in real life. Sure, there's plenty that's fucked about fashion -- promoting unhealthy beauty norms and unsustainable consumption, glorifying luxury and excess, relying on exploitative labour practices. But then apart from the beauty norms, isn't that just capitalism in general? Maybe it's a bit more obvious in fashion that there is a whole industry dedicated to creating demand, and changing it on seasonal whims, for profit, but it just works differently and on a slightly stretched out time-scale for other consumer goods. Besides, you can appreciate design without desiring accumulation -- again, I don't actually want Louboutins, any more than I want to seduce Mormon missionaries -- it just seems like a kind of attractive idea.

So what's so bad about fashion? Is it better if I say "style" instead? Maybe fashion is bad for women -- I'm pretty sure at least that most fashion magazines are bad for women. But maybe so is the denigration of fashion in relation to other design, as if buildings are necessarily more interesting and innovative than clothes. Isn't that just some old masculinist, classist prejudice like the divisions between art and craft, design and production?

(United Nude are interesting in this respect, with shoes inspired by the mobius strip and Eames lounge chair -- ashamedly I am much more comfortable telling people who aren't into fashion about these designs than equally stunning shoes by Fluevog or Irregular Choice.)

So, in defence of fashion: It's hot useable art for the masses. On a regular day the most creative thing I do is put an outfit together, and it's rarely as satisfying as penning a poem but usually better than reading the paper. And only the most obstinate intellectual snob could not find this delightful and exciting (and isn't Gareth Pugh the most aptly named designer you've ever heard of?).

Bling thing.

2008-08-26T19:05:00.004+10:00

A whole bunch of things I would never dream of wearing -- sneakers, sequins and shades -- but that look shit hot on M.I.A. She is a revo rockstar in kicks, and teh sex.

Zip-i-dee doo-dah, part two.

2008-08-20T23:43:00.001+10:00

Second part of my tribute to zips -- heels versus boots, all in black with red highlights.

Zip-i-dee doo-dah, part one.

2008-08-20T23:39:00.002+10:00

The first of a two-part tribute to the zip -- biker black versus starry starry blue.

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[from Wikipedia]

The true zipper was the product of a series of incremental improvements over more than twenty years [...] It culminated in 1914 with Gideon Sundback's invention of the "Hookless Fastener No. 2", the first version of the zipper without any major design flaws and essentially indistinguishable from modern zippers.

[...] The zipper slowly became popular for children's clothing and men's trousers in the 1920s and 1930s. In the early 1930s the haute couture designer Elsa Schiaparelli featured zippers in her avant-garde gowns, helping it to become acceptable in women's clothing.

[...] Clergy in the 1920s and 1930s described zippers as allowing one to take one's clothes off too quickly, thus hastening illicit sexual activity. Clothing with zippers was seen as inappropriate to be worn by women because of this belief, and was not fully adopted until the late 1950s.

--

This might become a series featuring particular sartorial technologies. Nerdcore? Why yes, please, I'll have some more.

Jackie, oh.

2008-08-20T23:37:00.001+10:00

A set for my friend Jackie, inspired by another Jackie. I'm somewhat dissatisfied with the result -- the Polyvore clipper isn't working for me today, so I had to go with items already on Polyvore or that I'd added earlier, and I'm really not happy with the bag and shoes here. I would have liked square toe pumps with a kitten heel, and a larger bag, but I couldn't find any in that colour. I love the gingko print dress though. I can really imagine Jackie wearing it with pizazz. And it's a radical departure from my usual palette, which is always fun -- see kids, neutrals can be cool!

LBD.

2008-08-12T21:11:00.006+10:00

Not really a lemming as it's not a current trend (as far as I know), but at the moment I'm really craving a little black dress with cap sleeves, a square, halter or sweetheart neckline, hem just below the knee and fitted to perfection. The sort of thing you could imagine Dita von Teese wearing:

It's not a style that I would have thought would work on me, but I tried one at Muff Vintage in Campbell Arcade a while ago and it was a little too big but otherwise pretty hot. I think that one was Cue -- I've seen a Supre version too, at Sally's Vintage on Smith St, but again the wrong size.

I'm a big fan of the Alexander McQueen one that I used in the Lady Killers set, and I've come across a few others in my explorations on Polyvore:

Alexander Mcqueen enhanced shoulder dress, Zac Posen "Ambrosia" dress

Michael Kors sweetheart dress, Rodnik bow-front dress

What do you think of this style? Would you wear it with gloves, hat and heels, or attempt to dress it down somehow? Or is it just too glam for everyday wear?

Me versus Australia.

2008-08-12T19:39:00.002+10:00

I missed the opening ceremony, due to one part disorganisation and two parts indifference, but I found a picture of the Australian team's uniform on the Vogue forums.

So, send in your votes -- do you prefer my attempt or the real thing?

Four on the floor.

2008-08-12T17:40:00.003+10:00

A modern flapper set -- minimal accessories as with four outfits, I was already hard-pressed for space, and anyhow the dresses speak so clearly on their own.

--

Have been Polywhoring it up since Internet came back at home -- y'all should look forward to a bunch of upcoming copycat sets, channeling various pop/rock idols from Pat Benatar to Peaches.

Channeling Joan Jett.

2008-08-12T17:39:00.000+10:00

I don't give a damn about yr bad reputation.
You fill my black heart with elation.

Harlequin girl.

2008-08-12T17:30:00.000+10:00

A monochrome emo set with a harlequin theme and a bit of an 80s influence (I've been spending all afternoon watching Pat Benatar, Cyndi Lauper and Joan Jett music videos on YouTube). Lyrics and title from a Panic! at the Disco song called "Lying is the most fun a girl can have without taking her clothes off", the only song I like by that band, which itself references the film Closer. Pop culture ahoy!

The Brown Man.

2008-08-12T17:29:00.000+10:00

Loki requested a set depicting us as superheroes. I haven't got around to mine yet, but this is Loki as The Brown Man (as usually five out of six items of clothing he's wearing will be brown), equipped with furrowed brows, thermos, first aid kit, fresh oranges, and a very handy spatula. Somehow a slight cowboy theme worked its way in there. If only the dinosaurs had a bicycling Brown Man around, maybe they'd still be here today! And if they were mean to another ey could whip them with eir belt. Or solve their problems with ginger beer.

It's green! It's white! No, it's the Brown Man!

Flores para los muertos.

2008-08-12T17:27:00.001+10:00

Entry for the Global Chic (Mexico) contest on the Polyvore forum.

To the left.

2008-08-10T22:07:00.002+10:00

Girl gang is go!

Designer information: "Slaughter the patriarchs" tee is by local fella called Fred Chook, and "Vote Liberal? My arse!" underpants are by Polichicks, a local lefty label who only use union labour.

Some buttons I would have liked to feature, had I the photographs available:
"riots not diets"
"just say no - to sex with pro-lifers"
"cunt love"

I have to point out my virtuosic punning on "left wing" -- but I'll leave it to you to imagine the Joan Jett, Le Tigre, Patti Smith and Peaches soundtrack ...

Backstage treats.

2008-08-10T21:56:00.002+10:00

I really like this set -- I think it just manages to be sugar sweet while narrowly avoiding twee. I'm not sure if I'd want the pink star buttons sewn onto the singlet, or if they're just there for decoration. I've been buying lots of buttons lately. I imagine it on a teenage girl taking the tram to dance class, with bubblegum in her mouth and headphones in her ears.

Designer information: You can buy the works of the featured artist on Etsy, I think. Pretty sure it's a local gal -- maybe not Melbourne but definitely Australian. The earrings are from madeit.com.au, and the singlet is from an Australian company (Metalicus) but I'm not sure if they manufacture here. You can get the Code Pink NoSweat sneakers (as well as a dozen other types) at Friends of the Earth on Smith St in Collingwood.

Marooned II.

2008-08-10T14:45:00.003+10:00

Daily outfit (Saturday 9 August):

maroon jersey dress with orange buttons - Camby markets, $4
goldfish scarf - RSPCA shop, $1
grey wool knee-high socks - Kmart sock sale
black blazer - Miss Cherry via Camby markets, $1
"life is grand" button - made it myself

Apologies for blurry photos, again -- I took them as I was running out of the house.

Little Miss Sunshine.

2008-08-05T23:55:00.000+10:00

It started with this gorgeous belt, and became a set on the theme of colours, prints, cuts and styles I'd normally deem too "difficult". Yellow, smock dresses, floral prints, gold, oversized sunglasses and quilted bags are all things I'd rarely risk, but here I've brought them all together in one outfit. I have to admit it wouldn't suit everyone, but I think the right person could really rock this if they wore it with a sense of humour.

I'd always hated these quilted leather handbags with the gold chain strap (I remember one of my mother's hiding in the back of the closet through my childhood) but lately I've looked upon them with some fondness -- they combine luxury and toughness in this brilliant and bizarre 80s way, resonating with capitalist excess and punky resistance ... maybe I'm reading too much into it, but regardless I think the bag brings a pretty speccy edge to an outfit that's otherwise a bit too princess buttercup.

Cloud city.

2008-08-05T23:49:00.002+10:00

Menswear entry for the Tokyo street style contest. I couldn't see any menswear entries in the contest, so I took it upon myself to create one. I feel fairly indifferent about the accessories here but the t-shirt and jeans I just love. It would take someone very cool to pull this off, but wouldn't they be spectacular? I will be so impressed if I see a boy wearing this.

Short, sweet and street.

2008-08-05T23:38:00.002+10:00

Entry for the Polyvore Tokyo street style contest -- it had to be made exclusively with items from a bunch of Japanese fashion web sites. Pretty difficult given that I couldn't search categories on most of these sites as I don't read Japanese. I was going for something interesting but not too put -together -- something that a reasonably style-conscious person might wear, but not for a special occasion. That's what street style means to me (as opposed to just something I would happen to wear on the street, because you know, that's where I walk and stuff). What do you think?

I also tried to create something that I can see being worn in Tokyo (based on looking at some Japanese fashion and style sites in the past, and reading Fruits and stuff, though I didn't research anything especially for this set), without overdoing the cutesy or OTT styles that are often associated with Japanese fashion, but also without just creating something based on Melbourne style and Australian trends (though the outfit is not at all unimaginable here).

Marooned.

2008-08-05T15:50:00.004+10:00

This is the first of an embarrassingly large series of posts involving new acquisitions. I was given these Docs a couple of months ago by my friend Lauren, who found them at the tip. The bag I bought from Camberwell markets on Sunday. I mainly got it because I liked the aeroplane, although looking at it again there's something unnervingly phallic about it. But it's actually pretty handy -- there's lots of compartments, and the outside pocket is great for being able to grab my bus ticket and phone without lots of fumbling. It's a good size, too -- not as bulky as the other green woven bag I usually use for uni, which is useful for emergency grocery shops, but it fits my A4 spiral notebook and 400 page subject reader easily, which makes me think it's a distant cousin of the Tardis. (Yes, sci-fi references will be a regular feature of this blog. They're what keep me from feeling subcultural shock at engaging so enthusiastically with fashion.)

Daily outfit (Tuesday 5 August):

long grey singlet
dusky blue v-neck cap sleeve t-shirt -- Kookai via RSPCA shop, $1
black drill pants -- Dangerfield via Camby markets, $2
navy wool hooded duffle bomber jacket -- China, last summer, about $AU 10
cherry wine Doc Martens -- reclaimed from waste!

maroon aeroplane bag -- Camby markets, $2
silver swirl earrings -- Camby markets via gift from Loki

A really casual outfit that I threw on while running (late) out of the house for my morning class, only to realise later how much maroon I was wearing. As well as the shoes and the bag, the tartan on the inside of my jacket's hood has a dark red as a main colour. I had six pockets today (two in my jacket and four in my pants) which was lovely for my cold hands and quite unusual for me. I think I could get used to this "practical" dressing instead of my usual dresses and ankle-length coats.

I have to giggle at how unnecessarily detailed my descriptions are -- how much do I need to say about a t-shirt? But I'd always hated wearing t-shirts, and now I realise it's just that crew necks and shapeless sleeves don't suit me. V-necks and cap-sleeves are fine -- and a good fit makes a lot of difference. So before you think "I can't wear x", get a little more specific. It's the same with colours -- I really love blue-greens but light aqua colours make me look sick while rich dark turquoises are gorgeous.

And now I better sign-off before this turns into an advice column. No Trinny and Susannah here, promise!

All Australian.

2008-08-05T15:32:00.003+10:00

Entry for the Australian designers contest in the Voguettes group: Gorman pants, Alice McCall shoes, Wheels and Dollbaby shirt, Mimco bag, upcycled laptop sleeve from madeit.com.au (the Australian version of Etsy), Dinosaur Designs earrings, and Overland which is probably my favourite Australian literary and current affairs journal at the moment (replacing Meanjin in my quarterly affections, oh no!).

I had wanted a rolled-up copy of The Age or SMH to go with the black and white theme, but I couldn't find an appropriate image. I'm not happy with the layout of the set. It was actually quite a challenge because while there are many great Australian designers, most of the photographs I found online were catwalk shots, magazine spreads, or at least had the clothes on models. Apart from S&B it was quite hard to find single items on a plain background -- I think I only saw one such photo for Alannah Hill!

Those of you who know me will probably be snickering and thinking "about time Lia did a black and white set".

Bicycle blues.

2008-08-05T15:07:00.000+10:00

Entry for the first contest contest in the "It's all in a dress" group -- it had to be a daytime outfit using only a dress and accessories, with gloves being compulsory. I considered adding a belt to this dress but decided against it in the end. I know that a bicycling outfit should really involve a helmet and no heels, but if the Sartorialist says it's okay, who am I to argue?

The scarf is for keeping the wind from your lovely locks -- take care not to let it flow too long or it might wind up in your chain!

I love these colours together but let me say that I am never this colour co-ordinated in real life.

The Lady Killers.

2008-08-01T18:49:00.002+10:00

I was talking to Jackie after seeing The Dark Knight (which both of us liked) about my perfect action movie: It would either be a gangster story set in Chicago during Prohibition (like Bugsy Malone) or something about assassins working for the French Resistance. The stars would be Maggie Gyllenhaal and Eva Green, either as partners or nemeses -- lots of sexual tension between them, either way.

This set layout is modelled on the image of Bruce Wayne walking through the door with three girls on his arm. I quite like the idea of Maggie Gyllenhaal and Eva Green flanked by their bitches. Maybe the Olsen twins? Haha.

I imagine Maggie in the shirt and trousers, and Eva in the teal dress (which is a little like the gorgeous gown she wore in Casino Royale). I would love to see her in something like this emerald dress Gina McKee wore to the BAFTAs. The gunmetal grey dress I imagine on a willowy blonde like Uma Thurman, and the black dress is very Dita von Teese, but I think Halle Berry or Rose MacGowan could rock it.

Poison, pistol, fire and blade.
Mother, crone, whore and maid.

The Lady Killers.

Art Guard.

2008-08-01T18:45:00.004+10:00

Most of the sets I make are based on a particular idea or image, without little thought on the look of the person who would wear such an outfit. But for this one I had a strong image of a woman in her 40s or 50s, with a professional job in the arts.

She might be the curator of a small gallery, or the director of a film festival. She likes bright colours, rich textures and unusual designs. When her clients and associates compliment her style, she is always proud to tell them of the young local designer who crafted her resin and steel necklace, or Eames inspired shoes, but embarrassed if the item in question is from a chain store or major label. She doesn't like to remember how much money she spends these days, and tries to pretend she's still a student, hunting for that special find in a Brotherhood of St Lawrence bin, rather than someone with stocks, board positions, and a gargantuan collection of luxury handbags.

She has been married for nearly a decade, but uses her own surname, and insists upon "Ms". She wears her hair in a sharp bob, or a sleek chignon with a silver filigree pin. Her name is Robyn, or Francesca.

--

I am crazy about United Nude shoes at the moment, especially these Mobius strip ones. Also a big fan of ombre/degradé patterns and colour block -- I got a fantastic black and white colour block dress from the local op shop the other day, for $2. It's a simple short black shift dress where the left half of the front is white. Very mod, and it'll look excellent if I find a belt for it.

Cat and bird.

2008-07-25T20:01:00.002+10:00

Lena is the sweet librarian who always wipes your fines, who keeps a jar of jelly babies for the children who come for storytime, who stays after her shift to finish shelving and then rushes home to feed her kitty, Smit. Before Smit there was a bird called Peek. One summer day Lena had let it out as usual, for a bit of a flap around the tiny flat, but this time it flew straight out the kitchen window. Sometimes Lena thought she saw Peek in the tree outside the library office window, but the feathers were always too green, or too yellow.

They can put you on a bus, but they can never take your style!

2008-07-25T19:59:00.001+10:00

Inspired by Enid from the comic and movie Ghost World -- my teenage hero.

First date.

2008-07-25T19:54:00.002+10:00

Fluttery belly. Fluttered eyes. Flattery. Blushes and wonderings.

Not sure about the "heteronormativity yay!" necklace but it works with everything else so it stays.

--

So, as you may have noticed, I've given up on the categories and numbering, because some sets will fall into more than one category, so it makes more sense to use tags instead. At some point I will post an explanation of all the tags I use.

Lime green, lime green and tangerine.

2008-07-25T18:11:00.001+10:00

Mother and child set, inspired by the Cure song. A bit boring.

Best friends forever.

2008-07-25T04:21:00.000+10:00

Bonnie and Chloe met on the first day of school, and became best friends instantly. Everyone marvelled at how quickly these two young girls came to mimic each other in manner and appearance, to the extent that even their parents would confuse them. Little did they know that one day, the charming likeness between the two girls would be the basis for their airtight alibi in the murder of twenty sixth-formers at Avalon Girls Grammar School.

As Bonnie flitted about the graduation ball, exchanging polite conversation with classmates, teachers and parents, Chloe silently and mercilessly slew every girl who entered the bathroom, building a great heap of corpses in the last cubicle. After the tenth murder, Chloe washed her hands, handed Bonnie the flask and dagger, and went to dance to her favourite song, Blondie's "Heart of Glass".

At precisely nine o'clock, Bonnie joined Chloe on the dance-floor. Everyone admired the pair as they dipped and twirled, blonde curls bouncing and flouncy skirts swirling. All eyes were on them as the song ended, and the principal tapped on the microphone, coughing.

For the first time in remembered history, there was a joint winner for prom queen.

Bonnie and Chloe squeezed each other's hands, and walked onstage with matching smiles.

Outfit with Purpose #14: She sells seashells by the seashore ...

2008-07-25T04:19:00.000+10:00

In Seychelles! Um, no. Another entry for the beachwear contest, a bit more dressy this time. There's so much great shell jewellery, I had to stop myself from overdoing it. What I'd really love for this set is a tiny gold starfish charm belly ring -- icing for the crochet bikini, which I've always thought is the hottest thing ever though I'm far from ever wearing one myself.

Outfit with Purpose #13: Everything's coming up beaches.

2008-07-25T04:18:00.000+10:00

Another entry for the beachwear contest, with a peaches and cream theme. (Too many rhymes, oh no!) I can't tell if the fruit on the Paul Frank bikini is peaches or actually apples, but I don't care because these sandals have seahorses on them. Fantastic!

Outfit with Purpose #12: Hijab hitchhiker.

2008-07-25T04:02:00.000+10:00

A second attempt at Islamic wear, this time with a younger, more casual look. I'm not very happy with it -- too matchy, and I don't really like the shirt. But I love these stretch lace headbands that I've seen Muslim women wearing under the hijab -- they look so much better than the drab beige ones that look as if cut off from a stocking! You could also use those crocheted hippy headwraps, but from personal experience they stretch something shocking. I've even seen stretch bands for wearing at the waist under a shirt, I guess for modesty when wearing low-rise jeans and a top that doesn't quite meet it. Anyway, they're good for added colour and texture.

Outfit with Purpose #11: Witching doll.

2008-07-24T18:45:00.000+10:00

Elegant gothic lolita, playing witches. Inspired by the movie "The Craft", which I watched about a dozen times when I was ten or eleven, and again for the first time in about a decade tonight.

Outfit with Purpose #10: Muslim chic.

2008-07-24T18:11:00.003+10:00

I'm not Muslim myself (and obviously not all Muslim women wear hijab anyway) but I've noticed a lot of great Islamic wear sets on Polyvore, and wanted to experiment with it. I joined the Modesty group because I like to challenge myself, and I think style is much more interesting when you have some kind of restriction (I'm also a member of various groups where the sets must contain flats, hats or the colour black).

I pretty much based this set around the gorgeous colours and beading in that hijab. The flower brooch can be worn decoratively, or used to pin close the cardigan, as there aren't any buttons as far as I can tell -- I think the long bits on the cardigan are intended to be wrap ties, but I think they look great just hanging, and the vertical lines give a nice shape to an outfit that is quite loose.

Anyway, this is my first attempt at an intentionally modest outfit (though quite a few of my existing sets are coincidentally modest), so let me know what you think!

If you're interested, there are a bunch of great Islamic wear style blogs around -- I'd recommend Hijab Style to start, but it links to many others.

What I Wore #2 - Wed 23/7/08 - Jewel Colours

2008-07-23T22:53:00.003+10:00

First photograph post! I got this turquoise tunic dress for four dollars the other day at the RSPCA op shop near my house. It has wide straps with big buttons on both back and front. I'm a bit iffy about these woollen tunic things -- the skirt part is a bit baggy, and the bust often looks odd on people of any size because it's just a flat band -- but I loved the colour so much I bought it anyway. You can't see it here, but I'm wearing pointy black low kitten heels with bow detail, and my stockings have translucent swirly patterns on them (I had another pair of black opaques underneath because it was cold!). The gold fish brooch was a reckless impulse buy from a vintage shop in Windsor, but it's been living on the collar of my otherwise slightly boring grey coat, so I don't regret it. I'm really loving my short hair now that I've realised it's a great excuse to indulge in dangly earrings, as with my bob they were all but hidden. These ones are green glass drops, not that you can tell from my shoddy photograph.

And my messy room revealed! Oh no! The beautiful rollertop desk comes from the side of the road (yay for hard rubbish collection) and my gorgeous dressing table that you can only see the bench of I bought off eBay, with great gratitude to my father who helped me get it home.

Outfit with Purpose #9: Whip-crack away!

2008-07-23T02:23:00.003+10:00

What she rides ain't horses, but she digs her heels in all the same.

---

A bit of a naughty one, with a touch (oh, just a touch) of pony play about it. The title comes from the Doris Day song "The Deadwood Stage", from the musical Calamity Jane, which I am finally seeing this Sunday at the Astor.

The shoes are by Fluevog, which is available at Sole Devotion, the fabulous shoe shop that's opened on Degraves St (I think there's one on Greville St too). I can't afford a thing from there but it's part of my Wednesday ritual to gaze adoringly at the shoes in the window, the paper at Il Papiro and the underwear at Smitten Kitten, say hi to a friend who works at Little Cupcakes, and maybe buy a waffle from Marc the Belgian waffle man before heading in to work at Ross House. For lunch I might get a cheap baguette from the kiosk on Centre Place, or a panini from No. 5 if I'm less stingy. After work I usually drop by the City Library, explore the shops down in Campbell Arcade -- Sticky, the Cat's Meow, Corky Saint Clair, Muff and Subject to Change -- and check out the Platform gallery if there's a new exhibition.

Wednesdays are the greatest.

Copycats #2: Karen O.

2008-07-23T02:22:00.001+10:00

Inspired by Karen O, vocalist and frontwoman of the Yeah Yeah Yeahs. When I saw them play in Melbourne (2003 I think?) she was wearing a pink tutu, ripped stockings, and loads of bling. She's fantastic.

Admittedly these shoes are a bit ridiculous for performing in, but she could always kick them off in the middle of a set if she wanted. The fleur de lys stockings are supposed to be worn over the purple ones -- not one on each leg, though I guess that's another option!

Outfit with Purpose #8: Summerloving.

2008-07-22T13:11:00.001+10:00

It's winter here but all the lovely summery sets from the northern hemisphere made me want to make believe warmer weather. I love chevron stripes at the moment; they're so funky and flattering.

Outfit with Purpose #7: Rockin' the suburbs.

2008-07-22T13:08:00.001+10:00

This is my attempt at updating 1950s housewife style. My lover (who likes most of my sets) winced and proclaimed it "butt ugly", and part of me agrees, but I kind of love the slightly grotesque and incongruous combinations. I specifically chose this dress over various other full-skirted options that were easier to work with because it's so ridiculously loud. What do you think? Weirdly awesome, or just ugly?

P.S. The swing coat should be worn open, over the shoulders, for maximum effect. Appropriate lingerie is essential.

Lemmings #5: Pussy-bow blouses.

2008-07-21T19:17:00.001+10:00

It's a frock-off! I stopped myself from making a safe, sexy secretary set (you know, chiffon or silk pussy-bow blouse, pencil skirt, seamed stockings, a la Maggie Gyllenhaal in Secretary) and had lots of fun playing with colours I never wear myself. I've just recently discovered Irregular Choice shoes and they're bloody brilliant. The earrings are from madeit.com.au, which is like an Australian version of Etsy. Polyvore is a great way to indulge all my dress up daydreams without spending any money -- so much better than eBay!

So, what do you think? Does the super-twee girly win with her cupcake-coloured cardi and cassette wallet (fluttering her eyelashes at you over your sweet milky tea), or the lass strutting fussless and fierce in her straight-leg jeans and flats?

Lemmings #4: Spectators.

2008-07-20T10:16:00.002+10:00

I love that this style of shoe has become trendy -- enough so that I've finally learned the name of them so I no longer have to say "you know, those two-toned shoes, lace-up, with perforated leather and sometimes scalloped edge detail, like bowling shoes or rockabilly dance shoes?". I might get a pair when they start to go out of style and get discounted. Not so sure about the sort of combined mary jane / derby / spectator styles that are currently popular (like this). My heart says yes but my head says "how?". In sourcing shoes for this set I came across a couple of other styles I fancy: these gorgeous brown t-bar spectators and these spunky red patent leather mary jane spectators -- I think wingtips look much better than a straight captoe.

All my new found knowledge of footwear terminology comes from shoesglossary.com, which is especially great when supplemented with the fabulously detailed descriptions at shoes.com I like knowing jargon -- it's nice to be able to describe things precisely and concisely.

This set pretty much features everything I love -- cameo lockets, alice bands, tuxedo jackets, bustle skirts, seamed stockings. I have a fabulous vintage frockcoat that I bought years ago and rarely wear because it's a bit too big for me and can only really be worn with skirts of the same length, but I lent it to my sister the other week for a school dress up day (she was going as a Suffragette) and it looked so great on her I think I might try it out again.

I'm just getting into steampunk style at the moment, so I guess this is inspired by that but it turned out to be more a straight interpretation of Victorian style (though I like to think it's not so historical that you'd look like a movie extra). Then again I don't really mind looking sartorially anachronistic -- without a Tardis, fashion is my time machine.

Copycat #1: Channeling Edie Sedgwick.

2008-07-20T10:14:00.001+10:00

Inspired by Gala Darling's post, How to Dress Like Edie Sedgwick. Unfortunately I can't wear sunglasses (because I wear specs all the time) but the rest I can really see myself getting into. I already wear black opaques and flats quite religiously.

Outfit with Purpose #6: Olympian.

2008-07-19T21:34:00.000+10:00

I haven't seen the Australian team's uniforms for these Olympics yet, but they're usually hideous. To be fair, green and gold isn't really the best palette to work with, and I imagine it's impossible to find shades that look good on all skin tones.

Nevertheless, my suggestion would be something along these lines. A blazer is a classic component of any uniform, and I think a shirt and trousers combination will suit the wide range of figures an Olympics team includes. The tie is a bit boring, but allows for visible continuity with other team members when not wearing the blazer. I've included a fair few accessories, to cater for individual preferences and some creative expression within the uniform -- flats and pumps, two belts, sunnies, watch, bag and purse. If I were actually designing a uniform, I'd want some more options for layering. Ideally all the leather items would have pleather alternatives for the vegetarians in the team. And with great restraint I refrained from indulging my penchant for pussy bow blouses, all in the name of simpler styles to suit more people. Though I didn't have a unisex set in mind, I think with this could work for men with minor alteration.

Lemmings #3: Blazers.

2008-07-19T21:27:00.002+10:00

I'm really, really lemming a blazer -- preferably a cropped, single-button style, in black velvet with satin trim. I am also liking the ones with contrast ribbon trim, and the striped ones (though they can be a bit too reminiscent of school uniforms). Undecided on this smoking jacket style, with round lapels instead of the normal ones, but I think I like it. It's a bit more softer, which would be interesting with a sharp pants-suit, though here I've just femmed it up all the way. I love these shoes something crazy.

I'm also (more gently) lemming an alice band -- especially a double style like this. Headbands often hurt my temples though, so I think I'll stick to scarves and ribbons. Pussybow blouses, too -- it's taking great restraint not to use them in every set, because they go with all the high-waisted styles I'm loving at the moment, in super-sexy secretary style, but they also look great with jeans for a more casual look.

Outfit with Purpose #5: It's a jungle out there.

2008-07-19T17:39:00.000+10:00

I've always hated safari clothes and animal prints, so I guess this was a bit of a challenge for myself. I'm not that happy with the result -- I love those shoes but they don't really work with the rest of the outfit, and the whole thing is a bit overkill (haha, bad hunting pun) -- but I had a lot of fun with the theme, as you can probably tell from the gold lion earrings, tiger eye ring and wooden tusk necklace!

Inspired by seeing a pair of leopard print shoes I actually liked in a shop window yesterday. They were pumps much like these, with a red velvet ribbon trim and a bow on the vamp. Very hot, though I can't imagine myself actually wearing them.

Lemmings #2: Corsets.

2008-07-19T16:05:00.001+10:00

I started out doing a set with four different corsets but there just wasn't enough space for four outfits. This one was the prettiest of the lot.

I've recently bought my first corset and it should be coming in the mail any day now!

Outfit with Purpose #4: Seeing green.

2008-07-18T05:26:00.002+10:00

I guess this is my "ethical consumerism" set, except that of course the most ethical way to consume is to consume less. If you already have a dozen bags, it's better to refrain than to purchase even a reusable bag made from recycled materials by unionised workers. Telling yourself that it's good to support a socially and environmentally conscious business is just cheating, really -- if that business is seriously dedicated to those causes, then it won't participate in the relentless marketing of inessential items. Unfortunately most ethical manufacturers are in the business of producing luxuries, anyway -- soaps, socks, notebooks, wallets -- the sort of things you buy people you don't know very well as gifts. But the trend seems to be more about wearing your good green heart on your sleeve than rethinking your life to reduce its overall impact.

Nevertheless, there's charm in trying, and probably less harm in a pair of organic hemp, recycled tire tread shoes than my grumpy mind likes to imagine.

Day and Night #1: Grey to go.

2008-07-17T22:04:00.001+10:00

I saw this dress and had to do a set around it. I guess this is my take on those "one item, many ways" features they have in fashion rags.

Menswear #2: Time travel writer

2008-07-17T22:03:00.001+10:00

Inspired by many, many BBC television series.

Menswear #1: Art star!

2008-07-17T21:59:00.002+10:00

Inspired by Barbara Kruger, Piet Mondrian, comic books and primary colours. Entry for the Polyvore menswear contest.

I saw a Barbara Kruger exhibition at ACCA a couple of years ago, and they had mugs for sale, with some of her slogans printed on them. I remembered wondering if that was dumb, ironic, or irony doubling in on itself to be dumb again. I always wonder the same thing when I see people wearing those Andy Warhol Che Guevara t-shirts. Interestingly, Guevara's family has come out against those t-shirts recently.

Lemmings #1: T-bars.

2008-07-17T21:58:00.000+10:00

I'd really like a pair of t-bars. I've decided not to buy shoes for a while, but if, say, I won a non-transferable voucher at a shoe store, I could really go a pair of basic black t-bar flats.

(Given that mary janes have been my staple footwear for the last five years or so, it's not that big a stretch of the imagination, really. I actually used to have a great pair of schoolgirlish black low-cut t-bar flats, but they got mangled in a turnstile door, and I decided to abandon to their natural death as the heel was pretty far gone anyway.)

Anyway, this is what I would wear with three pairs of t-bars: the classic t-bar, the ankle-strap variant, and the fabulous double-strap (a t-bar and a mary jane at the same time!). Other breeds of t-bar I like include the t-bar supplemented with cut-outs, the low-cut t-bar, and the verticle double-strap. I'm intrigued but worried by the peeptoe t-bar -- all peeptoes give me some anxiety, actually, as they're not quite sandals and yet require attractive toe, which seems like too much effort frankly.

Coincidentally, all three examples I've used are heels, which is odd because I prefer flats. I think it's just because they photograph better, but I wonder if I can blame the Sartorialist for conditioning me to prefer heels.

What I Wore #1 - Sat 12/7/08

2008-07-17T21:36:00.002+10:00

What I wore last night, for going to see a hip-hop burlesque show at a queer club. First time out with my new haircut (it's gone from a bob, just past chin length at the front and curving shorter at the back, with a side fringe, to a somewhat uneven number 10 all over).

- black medium-heel lace-up shoes
$1 at a Tasmanian op shop! Mine have a lower heel than the ones in the picture, and with black rivets and no toe cap.

- black linen short-sleeved collared shirt
Mine has slight ruching around the waist but it's not very noticeable. I bought it off eBay and it was waiting for me when I got back from Tas -- I think a big part of the attraction of eBay for me is getting things in the mail.

- grey denim-like wide-leg pants
Exactly like the ones in the picture, but I took out the waist tie and used a regular leather belt instead. Also from a Tasmanian op shop, for $2 -- hurrah for bargains!

- white dotty chiffon scarf
Mine's long and skinny, and I wore it wrapped and knotted around with ends left to hang. I got it from Camby markets some time ago and didn't think that much of it at the time, but it's so versatile, I really love it now. I can wear it as a belt or tie to break up black outfits, knotted in a pussy bow to girly up plain shirts, and around my hair to cover up bits that are sticking out. Now that I have even shorter hair scarves are really great for when I want a change, because I can't really do anything else to my hair at this length.

- jacket
This was the most similar picture I could find! Mine's a navy wool duffle bomber jacket with cream striped cuffs and hem, and a hood. I got it in China last year and I wear it almost everyday. It's really warm and comfy but not as shapeless as a normal hoodie. And the pockets are great; I'm not used to having pockets but they keep my hands toasty and a bit less awkward. This is pretty much the only coat/jacket I wear with pants now, as my ankle-length brown coat is a bit ungainly, and everything else I have is thigh or knee length which doesn't really work with trousers for me.

- black square plastic framed glasses
As always! Mine are a slightly different shape but probably no one else would notice. For years I had dark blue glasses frames and even my closest friends remembered them as black.

Outfit with Purpose #3: Sweetheart hero.

2008-07-17T21:32:00.004+10:00

What I'd wear if I were a gallant British butch gallivanting around London during the Second World War, all brash and brave and handy with the ladies. Multiple scarves for bandaging damsels in distress, and a fabulous timepiece to glance at in charming anxiety. Inspired by the blazer-wearing, cigar-brandishing Kay in Sarah Waters' The Night Watch, and both Captain Jack Harknesses in Torchwood.

Outfit with Purpose #2: Well-heeled and time-poor in a monochromatic frame of mind.

2008-07-17T21:32:00.001+10:00

What I'd wear were I wealthier and wary of tardiness, if invited to a black and white ball. As it is I am poor and impunctual, and rather happily so, but I daydream of strutting up red-carpeted stairs in red-soled heels, a jersey dress and houndstooth swing coat. The cuff on my wrist would check my hubris, remind me that we're all prisoners of time, and keep me from turning pumpkin.

Outfit with Purpose #1: Eating ice-cream in winter.

2008-07-17T21:31:00.003+10:00

What I'd wear if sitting by the wharf in Hobart, eating a double-scoop raspberry and vanilla/macadamia cone in the middle of July.